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Old 07-02-2010, 12:43 PM   #11
Bob Gardner
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Hi Kerry,

I think that that is Dave's preference.

I find that linseed oil can leave a sticky finish. Perhaps he and I use different types of linseed oil. The first task is to get all the dirt off the prop and that probably includes the remnants of fabric. Warm water and liquid soap will work fine. Then bees-wax will have a beneficial effect. I would agree that commercial polishes with lots of silicones in them would be detrimental but bees wax is fine and safe. It will plug the worm holes, feed the wood and give the prop a sheen. You should wax it once a month for two or three months, although the first wax will transform it.

Is the prop North or South of York? If South I'd like to come and see it.

With kind regards,

Bob
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Old 07-02-2010, 12:49 PM   #12
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HI Bob,

I will follow your advice to the letter. From 5th August the prop will be at my home very near York. I'll email you at Aeroclock with my mobile number. You are most welcome to come up from your location once it is delivered safely to mine, then you can see it before I start work on it. Not keen on removing bits of fabric - isn't that part of the original 'real estate' and therefore altering it from its original condition in some way?

Yours Aye

Kerry
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Old 07-02-2010, 01:10 PM   #13
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Thanks Kerry. I'd much like to see it. I might be able to read the data having had lots of practice in squinting!

There is an argument in favour of leaving the fabric as it is. But if it is fragile and falling off, which seems to be the case with your prop, there is also an argument that it will look better removed where the beauty of the wood is visible. Of course, if your prop was of particular historic interest it would be important to leave the fabric alone as a reference for future historians.

Any thought of restoration is always fraught with contradictions which is why we on this site advise against it. But cleaning and waxing it is conservation which will increase its life.

per ardua,

Bob
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Old 07-02-2010, 01:40 PM   #14
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Thanks Bob - you make a very valid point about restoration versus conservation. I'll certainly follow your guidance and gently wash it then give it a coat of beeswax applied from a tin. I'll keep what little fabric there is on it at this stage, because it is after all an original component of the propeller, even if little of it remains - it still has a historical entitlement to be there, as it were.

Ad Astra

Kerry
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Old 07-02-2010, 01:48 PM   #15
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That's the best course of action.

ad terra,

Bob
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Old 07-03-2010, 09:04 AM   #16
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Default Prop conservation

This is what I suggest you do with your prop.

1, Clean it. Do a small test patch with turps, if the finish does not react clean the whole prop. If it does react try Liberon furniture cleaner or warm water with some dishwashing liquid. You might as well remove whats left of the material (there doesn’t appear to be much left anyway).

2, Once the prop is clean, let it fully dry. Seal any areas where the finish is missing with shellac applied with a soft brush. 2 coats will be fine. Once the shellac is dry go over the whole prop with fine steel wool (0000).

3, Then wax with Liberon dark oak wax. This wax is tinted dark brown and should even out the colour ( follow the instructions on the tin)

You should NEVER apply oil or wax to unsealed timber unless you want to match a fully oiled or wax finish - these finishes basically died out with the introduction of shellac finishes. Once the timber is sealed you can easily removed what you applied on top if you are unhappy with the results. If it is unsealed the applied product will have seeped into the grain and it will be differicult or impossible to remove. If the wax doesnt even out the finish as you might like, wipe it down with turps, mix some brown umber or vandyke in a soulition of shellac (you dont need much tinting medium). Apply the tinted shellac in thin coats until you get the desired effect. Go over whole prop with very fine steel wool, then reapply the wax.

Hope this helps,

Regards,


Adrian.
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Old 07-03-2010, 09:22 AM   #17
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Default A couple of other notes

I agree with Bob, generally I would NEVER remove any original material. In this case though the is very little left - in fact I have more hair than this prop has material, so I really dont think it matters. Every item has to be acessed as it is, not two items are the same.

Re the wood worm - if you think the wood worm is still active - buy a siringe with a thin needle from the chemist and put a little turps in every hole - this will kill the worm - or you can put it in a plastic bag and gas it.

I dont believe any props had an oil finish - and I would never apply oil to a prop, especially one with unsealed timber areas.


Regards,


Adrian.
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Old 07-05-2010, 05:13 AM   #18
Kerry
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Many thanks for this advice Oinkitt - I will proceed as advised, and post up some before and after photos in due course. Thank you again,

Kerry
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Old 12-18-2011, 03:35 PM   #19
Kerry
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Default Cleaned up prop

This is what it looks like now - I'll post up a further image of the AIP numbers I found plus any other symbols or figures I can find.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Prop 1.jpg (33.3 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg Prop 2.jpg (80.6 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg prop 3.jpg (85.7 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg Prop 4.jpg (67.6 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg Prop 5.jpg (80.7 KB, 6 views)
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Old 12-18-2011, 04:28 PM   #20
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Hi Kerry,

Many thanks for posting these pictures. It is so rare people take time to do this after knowing what they were looking for!
Seems to me you make a very good job. The white strip (very good idea to spare it!) is the gun timing mark.

Very best regards,
PM
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